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1 August 2019
5 October 2016
St Aldhelm's Head Bouldering/Exploring
On Saturday, I took a chance to explore St Aldhelm's Head a little more and see what oppotunities might be available for new routeing.
The forecast was pretty dire, with heavy showers expected most of the day. However, after a short lie in I was up and about by 10.30 and the sun was shining. Only one short sharp shower came my way around 3.30pm - as I was heading to the pub.
St Aldhelm's Head is an interesting area, and one often overlooked my many visitors. It does posess a somewhat esoteric reputation (probably why I like it) and the rock quality is lesser than that of the fine sea cliffs further down the coast, being high up above the beach they get less erosion from the sea. The beach below the cliffs is an array of boulders and shrubbery, giving an isolated feel but beautiful surroundings for bouldering.
Recent years have seen a surge in bouldering development on the beach by locals, and many impressive lines have been put up. Still, further development potential was available on the East Beach near Buttery Corner and this was my main objective for the day.
I found a blue nylon rope to help my decent on to the East Beach and made my way towards Buttery Corner, keeping an eye out for any good boulders that have fallen from above. I kept going to explore the sea cliffs beyond Buttery Corner and found the two recorded routes that exist there. I could see there might be potential for further lines to go, but as with this area of cliff the top outs can be very loose and dangerous, so caution will be needed.
Making my way back along the East Beach I got to work on a couple of boulders, putting up a few (possibly new) problems up to V3.
I did come back the next day for some more exploring, unfortunately the previous nights beer session put rest to that. :)
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| St Aldhelm's Head beach from the clifftop |
St Aldhelm's Head is an interesting area, and one often overlooked my many visitors. It does posess a somewhat esoteric reputation (probably why I like it) and the rock quality is lesser than that of the fine sea cliffs further down the coast, being high up above the beach they get less erosion from the sea. The beach below the cliffs is an array of boulders and shrubbery, giving an isolated feel but beautiful surroundings for bouldering.
 |
| Upper cliffs |
Recent years have seen a surge in bouldering development on the beach by locals, and many impressive lines have been put up. Still, further development potential was available on the East Beach near Buttery Corner and this was my main objective for the day.
 |
| East Beach - Deer Stalker V2 |
I came here shortly after the Doreset Bouldering guide by Ben Stokes came out last year, so had already experienced a few of the problems already. Today it was just me, and the occasional Deer hopping amongst the boulders.
I found a blue nylon rope to help my decent on to the East Beach and made my way towards Buttery Corner, keeping an eye out for any good boulders that have fallen from above. I kept going to explore the sea cliffs beyond Buttery Corner and found the two recorded routes that exist there. I could see there might be potential for further lines to go, but as with this area of cliff the top outs can be very loose and dangerous, so caution will be needed.
 |
| East Beach - Butter Knife V1 |
I did come back the next day for some more exploring, unfortunately the previous nights beer session put rest to that. :)
16 May 2016
Dartmoor and other aquatic excursions...
Recently I have ventured back to Dartmoor after not visiting since last Summer, which seems a bit ludicrous considering how much I like climbing on the moor.
My first real climb on Dartmoor, way back when I was a nipper, was The Ordinary Route (Mod) at Vixen Tor - now sadly banned due to idiot 'land owners'. Descent thereafter was quickly made with some old rope and a Camp 4 nut, down the wall that Angel of Mercy (the most intimidating route on Dartmoor in 1986 - E6 6b) climbs.
I promptly came back to Dartmoor years later, when I first started trad climbing, and found the granite quite foreboding and hard to get to grips with (pun intended). However, in recent years my skills seem to have improved and I now find it some of the most enjoyable rock to climb over.
So, my first trip about a month ago was primarily to satisfy my vanity somewhat, as my friend Mark was looking for models for guidebook shots - so I gladly accepted. Two objectives were set, an HVS at Leather Tor for me and a HS at Foggintor Quarry for Colette.
I was somewhat apprehensive approaching Leather Tor, as I had not lead an HVS for a while and it's normally starting to push my limits on trad when I get to that grade. But nevertheless I gave it a go. The route in question was The Scottish Highlands (HVS 5a), after making easier moves up to small ledge with a bomber blue hex I was starring at the crux. After placing one or two more bits of gear and making a few tentative moves on and off the ledge to get a feel, the sun started to come out and I felt it was my time to move, less we miss that perfect shot of me tackling the crux!! So off I stepped, on to a tiny nubbin for a foot smear, hands on a sloper and a good crimp, and little fairy foot swap and right hand over left and I was balanced high on this overhanging slab of granite! I took a couple of seconds to work it out, stepped up again to grab a layback and get my feet safely in the break. All that was left was to teeter off to the left and escape to the top. Then the elated feeling of realising it was easier than I'd thought, and I hadn't spectacularly fallen off - although it would have made a good photo.
To Foggintor, and Colette made a successful ascent of Swan Lake (HS 4b). A beautifully positioned arete hanging over the quarry lake made for a perfect shot!
Summer has been starting to make its presence slowly felt as winter storms have finally given way to Spring and more moderate temperatures. Which has got me excited for some outdoor swimming again.
I bought my first wetsuit last year, which made me rediscover how much I love being in the water, but now I could stay in for an almost limitless time (or at least until I get tired) and not get cold. I don't do very well in cold water, and after short amounts of time my fingers go white and I start to lose all dexterity in my fingers and limbs. So this realisation was a reawakening, and I made the most of it last year, even going for a dip on Christmas day.
I decided to buy a proper swimming wetsuit this year for the warmer months to give me a bit more freedom in the water, rather than struggle with my 5mm winter suit - and last weekend was the perfect chance to try it out. With the weather in the low-mid 20s, a quick trip was made to the Wye Valley for some river swimming and climbing. We also made a quick stop at one of my favourite places, Castle Hill in New Forest, on the way home.
This weekend saw another trip back to Dartmoor, this time less vanity induced. I made my way down on Saturday afternoon to arrive around 4pm, then took a wander down the river from Newbridge Marsh to find Wellsfoot Island. After some exploring I come across two ladies also looking for the sought after swimming spot, and realised together that we are on the wrong side of the river to reach the isolated beach on the Island. After some more detective work I find the bridge to the Island, but still on the other side of the river. I have to make a river crossing if I want to get there quickly! Alone in the woods (almost), I strip down to my underwear and slip on my wetsuit, stuffing all my belongings in to my Alpkit Gourdon drybag. Across the river I go slipping and sliding on rocks as I do, then finally I make it to the beach. Bag down and sandals off, I jump in! Definitely the most picturesque spot I've swam in yet, I highly recommend - but take the path on the North side of the river.
Later I take my rock shoes up to Bench Tor and ponder soloing a route, but it does take me so I enjoy the sunset views across the valley.
A chilly night it was in the van, I even had to get the duvet out! The morning however was magnificent, and after some coffee, a cinnamon swirl and some fruit for breakfast I wander up to the Tor again to take it all in. Swiftly followed by a quick walk around Venford Reservoir after.
Off to Hound Tor to meet Mark again, nothing particular in mind other than to check out Greator Rocks (pronounced Gre-ah-tour). I pondered again at soloing a route or two, but my head just wasn't in that mood. After checking out King Jam (E1 6a) I noticed the striking overhanging slab below, with an obvious lip traverse which would make a good bouldering problem. At initial inspection I discovered a nice thread hole, which made a great jug handle but only gave you momentary relief until you carried on slapping away across the lip.
I spent a good half hour or so brushing down the holds which were covered in lichen, which is no good for friction. After a little while of grunting in the sun I manage to climb it clean, which was good as I didn't bring a boulder mat! Judging by the amount of lichen on it it probably hasn't been climbed before either, so I named it Queen Slapper (British 6a / V4) as a juxtaposition to the King above her. Mark was also on hand to capture the action.
After not expecting that much this weekend, I came away feeling quite pleased with my achievements.
My first real climb on Dartmoor, way back when I was a nipper, was The Ordinary Route (Mod) at Vixen Tor - now sadly banned due to idiot 'land owners'. Descent thereafter was quickly made with some old rope and a Camp 4 nut, down the wall that Angel of Mercy (the most intimidating route on Dartmoor in 1986 - E6 6b) climbs.
I promptly came back to Dartmoor years later, when I first started trad climbing, and found the granite quite foreboding and hard to get to grips with (pun intended). However, in recent years my skills seem to have improved and I now find it some of the most enjoyable rock to climb over.
So, my first trip about a month ago was primarily to satisfy my vanity somewhat, as my friend Mark was looking for models for guidebook shots - so I gladly accepted. Two objectives were set, an HVS at Leather Tor for me and a HS at Foggintor Quarry for Colette.
I was somewhat apprehensive approaching Leather Tor, as I had not lead an HVS for a while and it's normally starting to push my limits on trad when I get to that grade. But nevertheless I gave it a go. The route in question was The Scottish Highlands (HVS 5a), after making easier moves up to small ledge with a bomber blue hex I was starring at the crux. After placing one or two more bits of gear and making a few tentative moves on and off the ledge to get a feel, the sun started to come out and I felt it was my time to move, less we miss that perfect shot of me tackling the crux!! So off I stepped, on to a tiny nubbin for a foot smear, hands on a sloper and a good crimp, and little fairy foot swap and right hand over left and I was balanced high on this overhanging slab of granite! I took a couple of seconds to work it out, stepped up again to grab a layback and get my feet safely in the break. All that was left was to teeter off to the left and escape to the top. Then the elated feeling of realising it was easier than I'd thought, and I hadn't spectacularly fallen off - although it would have made a good photo.
 |
| Swan Lake is the arete just right of centre. |
To Foggintor, and Colette made a successful ascent of Swan Lake (HS 4b). A beautifully positioned arete hanging over the quarry lake made for a perfect shot!
Summer has been starting to make its presence slowly felt as winter storms have finally given way to Spring and more moderate temperatures. Which has got me excited for some outdoor swimming again.
I bought my first wetsuit last year, which made me rediscover how much I love being in the water, but now I could stay in for an almost limitless time (or at least until I get tired) and not get cold. I don't do very well in cold water, and after short amounts of time my fingers go white and I start to lose all dexterity in my fingers and limbs. So this realisation was a reawakening, and I made the most of it last year, even going for a dip on Christmas day.
I decided to buy a proper swimming wetsuit this year for the warmer months to give me a bit more freedom in the water, rather than struggle with my 5mm winter suit - and last weekend was the perfect chance to try it out. With the weather in the low-mid 20s, a quick trip was made to the Wye Valley for some river swimming and climbing. We also made a quick stop at one of my favourite places, Castle Hill in New Forest, on the way home.
This weekend saw another trip back to Dartmoor, this time less vanity induced. I made my way down on Saturday afternoon to arrive around 4pm, then took a wander down the river from Newbridge Marsh to find Wellsfoot Island. After some exploring I come across two ladies also looking for the sought after swimming spot, and realised together that we are on the wrong side of the river to reach the isolated beach on the Island. After some more detective work I find the bridge to the Island, but still on the other side of the river. I have to make a river crossing if I want to get there quickly! Alone in the woods (almost), I strip down to my underwear and slip on my wetsuit, stuffing all my belongings in to my Alpkit Gourdon drybag. Across the river I go slipping and sliding on rocks as I do, then finally I make it to the beach. Bag down and sandals off, I jump in! Definitely the most picturesque spot I've swam in yet, I highly recommend - but take the path on the North side of the river.
 |
| The forbidden beach. |
Later I take my rock shoes up to Bench Tor and ponder soloing a route, but it does take me so I enjoy the sunset views across the valley.
A chilly night it was in the van, I even had to get the duvet out! The morning however was magnificent, and after some coffee, a cinnamon swirl and some fruit for breakfast I wander up to the Tor again to take it all in. Swiftly followed by a quick walk around Venford Reservoir after.
Off to Hound Tor to meet Mark again, nothing particular in mind other than to check out Greator Rocks (pronounced Gre-ah-tour). I pondered again at soloing a route or two, but my head just wasn't in that mood. After checking out King Jam (E1 6a) I noticed the striking overhanging slab below, with an obvious lip traverse which would make a good bouldering problem. At initial inspection I discovered a nice thread hole, which made a great jug handle but only gave you momentary relief until you carried on slapping away across the lip.
 |
| King Jam and her Queen. |
I spent a good half hour or so brushing down the holds which were covered in lichen, which is no good for friction. After a little while of grunting in the sun I manage to climb it clean, which was good as I didn't bring a boulder mat! Judging by the amount of lichen on it it probably hasn't been climbed before either, so I named it Queen Slapper (British 6a / V4) as a juxtaposition to the King above her. Mark was also on hand to capture the action.
After not expecting that much this weekend, I came away feeling quite pleased with my achievements.
 |
| The money shot. |
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