The Love Affair

Way back in April of this year, during a time of transition in my life, I spent some time exploring in the Mendips looking for unclimbed rock, and hopefully a few lines to work on.

After being pointed towards a crack line that hadn't been climbed, I quickly gave up on it due to seepage and clay filled crevices!

However, I had also found a short but very steep wall that looked perfect for a boulder problem. It looked hard though, and would need some time putting in.

I have never been one for working hard on routes. If something is too hard for me, I usually lose interest and move on. So working on a project over a long period of time has been a new challenge for me, and I wasn't sure if it would be my thing to start with.

I have been working on this boulder problem periodically since I first found it. The first part of the problem is fairly straightforward at about V3 (5c), but you then lunge in to a really insane hell hook to gain a crimp and three finger pocket, before swinging round and doing a drop knee to gain the finishing jug. This goes at around British 6b I think.

I have come to admire and respect this wall in many ways. The nature of rock is a little friable, as a seam of sandier rock has made its home between the solid limestone. But with careful cleaning the holds are good. The wall itself, in my opinion is just beautiful to look at, its such an obvious line for a problem. At first glance it doesn't look too hard, but as I discovered it has an unrelenting side to it that keeps you coming back for more.

A few months have passed now and I am nearing the end, I know I'm two moves from finishing it. Looking back now I've found this project similar to being in a relationship, or even a love affair. I've had times when I wanted to give up, walk away and not return. But after time apart I've realised how much I miss it and have to return. Now, being so close to finishing it I find it hard to stay away, always wanting to be together and share what we can offer each other. It starts to become a little obsessive.

I can't wait to feel the elation of finishing this project. It will be the hardest bit of climbing I have ever worked on, and I wonder if I am now going through a transitional stage in my climbing career. Am I no longer satisfied with just climbing ordinary routes? Do I always have to put this much effort in to get the same feeling? The answer is most likely no, but I do feel a change is happening.

The crux....