19 May 2012

Spaghetti Western

Today I went back down to Hedbury to finish what I started a couple of weeks ago. The A1 graded aid climb, Spaghetti Western.

Swinging about!



Last time I was there, I made my way about three quarters across the roof crack before giving up - because I couldn't get any gear in. That was my first attempt at aid climbing, so I took my experience with me and learnt more before I returned.

This time, prepared with the knowledge of back cleaning, and a new aider to replace my home made ones, I succeeded in crossing the roof. The key this time was doing a quick bit of back cleaning to retrieve the rock 7 that I believed would go in the crack that stumped me last time.








The dubious rock 7 placement.





After a bit of wiggling and tugging I got the rock 7 in. It was however the most dubious looking piece of gear I had put in - but it held fine, and in fact took some getting out afterwards! Once I passed that point the rest was simple, I had crossed the roof.












I was also much quicker this time, and completed it in about an hour and half. I put this down to being better prepared.
Looking back across the roof.

With a little free time left, I abseiled down on to the sea ledge to have a look about, then climbed back out Rear Entry (Diff).

Good times :o)

Looking east from the sea ledge.



The nuts required to cross the roof.




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