First E1, again!

So, there I was this morning, sat on the sofa in my dressing gown writing the previous blog post about how unmotivated I was to go climbing by myself.

After I finished it was nearing midday so I thought I better get up and look presentable. I washed my face and wet my hair, then looked at myself in the mirror and thought 'what else are you going to do today?'. And that was it, I was motivated! I chucked on my usual tatty trousers and a tech top, then got my gear together, made a sandwich, chucked it all in the boot and off I went to the quarry.

As I pulled up outside the quarry I was expecting to see cars parked all along the road, but to my delight there was no one in sight! I like it when you get a crag to yourself, much the same as I dislike seeing droves of people in the mountains. Yes, I'm a bit snobby that way!

I first got started on Truffle (HS 4b). My plan was to climb this, then set up a top rope to practice the moves on the E1 climb I backed off of last time. This climb is called Toblerone (E1 5b).

Topping out of Truffle

I blogged not too long ago about climbing my first E1. But sadly the climb has recently been downgraded to HVS. So I was still after the elusive grade.

After working the route I had made my mind up. I was going to lead it. There was only one hard move on it, and I had done it three times without falling off!

Toblerone

So I tied the rope to a sapling and clipped it in to my belay device so it would feed the rope automatically to me. Once I had all my gear off I went, and climbed straight to the top!

E1 in the bag!

After a nibble I climbed up the first pitch of Heaven Can Wait (HS 4b), trailing the rope behind me and pulling it up. My next target was a bold climb called The Early Worm (HVS 4c). Bold because there is no protection until half way up the route. I tied on to another sapling and started climbing. The initial moves were quite technical, but didn't feel too scary being close to the ground. Then on to a slab where delicate moves got me to easier ground near the top. I didn't end up putting any protection in, couldn't see anything decent but I might of missed it!

The Early Worm

At the top of Backing Up

My last objective for the day was Backing Up (VS 4c). I have climbed this on a top rope before and have succeeded, but climbing it on lead today felt quite stiff! I haven't climbed it in a few months so maybe that's it. But it certainly felt great climbing it today.

Portrait from top of Backing Up

Another successful afternoon. Glad I got off my arse!