5 February 2013

Sunnier climbs...

Brad and I got down to Swanage this weekend, as for once the sun was gonna be out! As the Somerset limestone can take longer to dry we knew we'd have some warm rock to place out hands on!

Whilst this was true, there was definitely some seepage, but waterfalls might be a better description.

The seepage!
After a very muddy walk in (glad we brought the wellies!) we arrived at Hedbury. After a quick coffee we abbed down to the ledge below the old cannon that lies in the quarry. At first we got our guidebook descriptions wrong and climbed something we thought was in the book, but turned out it was not. But nevertheless we climbed a few lines on the ledge anyway. About four in total from VDiff to Severe.

Brad following me up a VDiff

Once the seas had calmed down a little, we abbed down in to the zawn where our initial intentions lay. We were interested in two climbs here. One called Billy (Severe 4a) and the other called Bilbo (Hard Severe 4b). Brad took the first lead and headed up Billy. The route climbs easily up to a ledge at first where there is the first peice of protection. It then steepens up very quick as you take the next move up and actually become slightly overhanging. Some more good protection is available before making the crux moves and reaching a good ledge and the top.

Brad reaches the safety of the ledge on Billy

Its certainly been a while since we've both done a 'Swanage Severe' (generally the grades feel a little harder at Swanage) but it was definitely one of the best I've done down there! Its also the first time I've got completely soaked by a wave :)

Soon to get wet!

After a little lunch I went back down in to the zawn and inspected the next line - Bilbo. I checked the protection on the way down and saw there was bomber gear just before the crux, but after some mind games I reluctantly decided to try it on the top rope. I was glad I made it up there with ease, and was slightly annoyed inside that I didn't just lead it in the first place. But hey ho, plenty of other climbs out there, and I'm sure i'll go back and lead it at some point.


Climbing Bilbo




As the sun went down, we did a quick easy traverse on the cliffs below the quarry for some fun.



Traversing





Sunday I went for a good eight mile run, starting from a new location the other side of Hampton Ridge. This made for a very hilly run! Which was good.


My hilly run







Tonight I went to the Fort for some bouldering. I chucked my headphones on as well and listened to some music as I climbed. I've often found I get quite bored especially when its just me down there, the music made a good background distraction and my climbing flowed nicely. It was very relaxing.




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