Return to Goblin Combe

Yesterday was the first day that Brad and I have been climbing outdoors for a little while. We did pop down Swanage a couple of weeks ago to Hedbury, but today we were going back to Goblin Combe.

Since September we have made efforts to get down Calshot at least once a week. This has helped increase our endurance overall, as well as getting my head back to a comfortable place with regard to leading routes after last years fiasco! (but we won't mention that anymore).

Beautiful trees...and Brad!

Before arriving I had no real expectations about what I was going to achieve. I thought I would start off with Bolg (Severe 4a), which is a nice layback crack and probably the best severe at the crag, then have another go at Pippin (Very Severe 5a).

I was relaxed when we got to the crag, I felt no pressure on myself like I had before. After some coffee I started on Bolg. I climbed easily up to the beginning of the crack, put in some gear before heading back down to grab another big nut! Once that was in I stepped up and right slightly to gain the ledge above the crack, and that was that! Easy climbing to the top.

Surmounting the crux on Bolg

Playing a game of oneupmanship Brad then lead Gremlin Groove (Hard Severe 4b). I rather good climb with a slightly awkward crux before the top.


It was my turn again, and it was time to try Pippin once more. I have tried this route two times before. The crux of the climb is right at the start, and the first time I tried it I couldn't work out the sequence. Second time though I got the moves and made a grab for the ledge, but my head wasn't in the right place and I gave up. Today however was a different affair. Popped in my first bit of gear, then executed the moves as if I'd done it a hundred times before (which could be true!) and I was on the ledge. Steady but easy climbing continued up the corner, with a bit of a run out towards the top. Finally got it!

About to abseil

Brad continued his oneupmanship theme and tried the climb next door to Pippin called Disaster Area (Hard VS 5a). This climb follows a brilliant natural crack line straight up the middle of the face before breaking left and continuing to the top. Brad climbed up to the start of the crux and put a couple of pieces of protection in. After trying the moves a few times he concluded the hold was a bit too damp and greasy for him. So he came down and I thought I'd give it a go. I quickly gained Brad's high point and managed to creep up a little higher and place another good nut before trying the crux. The main hold consisted of a three finger pocket used by the left hand to gain the upper crack and slightly easier ground. I surprised myself with how easily I did it, I was very pleased when I got to the top! Brad decided not to second it, as he wanted to leave the on sight for another day.




The light started to fade, and after finishing off the last of the coffee we called it a day.





It seems all the training at Calshot has paid off. Mentally my head seems to be in the right place now. After blowing away some cobwebs on the first climb, I didn't feel any nerves or uncertainty with the rest of the climbs that day. I'm feeling in a good place right now.

Brad and I are taking the first week of December off to go and find some climbing somewhere. Hopefully some snow might have fallen in North Wales, but we'll have to see what the weather's looking like. Lets just say we're being highly optimistic!

  

Pippin takes the corner on the left,

while Disaster Area takes the central crackline

between the two ropes.