Not to worry though as we planned to get in some long mountain routes on rock instead.
The week started off dry and we were optimistic about our first day. We set off to Cwm Silyn at the far end of the Nantelle Ridge. Our aim was a multipitch VDiff called Outside Edge Route. A pleasent walk in preceded the route, and a final scrabble up some scree took us to the base of the buttress.
After scoping out where the route went, we geared up and got on our way. Brad lead up the first pitch and built a belay. I followed him up with numb fingers on the cold rock.
After switching leads I traversed out on to the ledge of the second pitch, but had trouble with cold fingers and numb feet. We switched again and Brad managed to get on to the next ledge, but upon looking at the next section we changed our minds. We had already been faffing about for an hour, and only had about an hour and a half of daylight left. So we made the decision to traverse right along a ledge then abseil back down.
With that in mind the next day we set ourselves a slightly more manageable objective. We walked up in to Cwm Idwal to climb Sub Cneifron Rib, another multipitch VDiff but easily escapable between pitches if we needed. Brad took the first pitch again, and I followed with numb fingers (again). A three star first pitch indeed!
I took the second pitch, and the third. The third pitch started with an awkward step up on to a block, then rounded the corner of the rib to gain it by its right hand side. The climbing up to here was straightforward, but gaining the rib was proving tricky. Footholds seems to vanish, calves were pumping and protection above seemed sparse! After about 20 mins of going up and down (mainly trying to keep warm) looking at the rib and where I might go next, I decided to give up.
I left a rock 7 behind but managed to get the rest of my gear. Brad was frozen to the spot on my return, and after looking at the route from below we both decided it was a wise choice. We headed over to attempt Cneifron Arête, a moderate climb, but decided against it as we were running out of light again.
A few showers came overnight, and I even had my first shower since arriving too! So the next day we planned a long mountain scramble. We decided to tackle Crib Goch's North Ridge, then the traverse, on to Crib y Dysgyll and back down the ridge flanking Cwm Glasyn's right side.
A steady walk to an initial scramble up a waterfall entertained us before heading up the North Ridge. Exciting scrambling took us to the summit before we traversed Crib Goch and for the first time we traversed the pinnacles too!
More scrambling took us to our last summit where we sat down for a nibble before heading down the mountain again. A great expedition!
Wednesday night saw a storm head in with some strong winds. So we took an easy day and checked out the slate quarries, Dinas Cromlech, and I also had a little boulder in the pass too.
Our last day too was a little damp, so we planned another mountain day. We went back to try Cneifron Arête again, but on arriving it had started raining and strong gusts were still abound. So we took an easy scramble up a gully to the left before taking the head wall to lead us on to Y Gribin ridge. We followed the ridge towards the summit and enjoyed some more good scrambling. This was the first time we had ascended this way (only descending before) and found the scrambling much more interesting than on the way down, mainly because you could better seek out the difficulties looking from below. After a pit stop on the summit we headed towards Bristley Ridge to descend, but took the scree slope instead as the weather was a little unpleasant. A simple walk back down to the car was all that was needed from Tryfan Bwlch.
A good early season bash, hoping for snow next time. With luck we can get back up there in feb/march. Depending what the weather does maybe some routes will come in nick in South Wales??
Time to sit and wait.
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