My first E1

SUNDAY 19th FEBRUARY 2012

Brad and I arrived at the quarry (Fairy Cave) around 10am. The previous day had rained quite a bit, but overnight was dry and the quarry was set for some good sun. However the east side - where most of the decent climbs are - wouldn't get the sun until later, so we decided to find a spot in the sun until it dried.

On the south side of the Alpine Ridge (a common decent from the quarry top) lies a short grey wall with a few climbs on it. One of which is called Odd Boots (E1 5b), at eight metres in height the guidebook reads 'Climb the left-hand side of the good grey wall on small holds'.

Approximate line of Odd Boots (and the Alpine Ridge)

We dropped a top rope down to try out the moves, as the landing was a bit dodgy if you came off. A quick foot swap, a careful rock over - which had me near horizontal - and a quick slap for the ledge had me over the crux first try. I tried it once more on the top rope and decided to do it solo!

Keeping my balance

On the first try my nerves got the better of me, my foot slipped causing me to lunge for the rope so I didn't hit the ground. Second go, rock over done and first decent handhold grabbed, but realised I grabbed it with the wrong hand. This didn't seem to matter too much as I was quickly pulling over the top with a big grin on my face!

First rock over

Easy does it...

After a spot of coffee, we then decided to repeat Halfway to Kansas (HS 4b). Brad lead the first, and I the second pitch. A great route in the quarry, love it!

Nearing the top on the second pitch (Halfway to Kansas)

We finished the day with a corner climb, and a very loose finish. I thought it would be logged somewhere on UKC but apparently not. I thought maybe a Severe 4a, but maybe a little softer.

Brad approaching my belay at the top of the corner

I'm proud of my first E1, despite it being a short one. I still think the grade is warranted, as I did not use any protection (like bouldering mats). It has certainly made me feel more confident and ready to try some harder climbs.

Here's to 2012. Hope it gets warmer soon!